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May 07, 2009

Dec 24, 2009

Wild asparagus

?My dog, Gracie, and I were walking out in the fields the other day when I remembered a lone asparagus that grew in the adjacent field. I am not talking of one 'patch' of asparagus but actually 'one' asparagus. Setting out to find this lone asparagus, I wasn't sure that I could recall exactly where it was growing and anyone that has ever searched out wild asparagus knows it can be a challenge to locate these delicious green morsels in a patch, let alone 'one' lowly stalk.
As I walked along, eyes downward, inspecting every clump of grass, there before me stood the magnificent green stem - all three feet of it! I broke the asparagus off and holding it in two hands, bent the asparagus until it snapped off at its natural point. (This is how you determine where to cut the asparagus when cleaning it for your dinner.) After snapping the asparagus I was left with about sixteen inches. I bit into the raw vegetable and even at the age and length of this green goddess, it was smooth and silky, almost creamy in texture. I munched on the stalk all the way back home thinking, Ontario asparagus, especially wild asparagus, is an amazing vegetable. Any asparagus of that size that you would find in a supermarket would be stringy and woody by then. Wild asparagus is gold!
To find wild asparagus, wait until late summer or early fall when the plant has gone to seed and grows over three feet. It is easy to see and very recognizable by its fern-like foliage. When you find the wild asparagus plant, make a note of exactly where it is located and pace off steps from a landmark. By spring, when it is ready to eat, it is usually very difficult to find. My favourite way to eat wild asparagus (or domestic) is raw. The taste reminds me of fresh peas. And if it is wild asparagus, it is crunchy and creamy all at once.
Steaming asparagus is my next favourite. The bright green colour remains and if you don't steam too much, the crunch is still present.
Grilling asparagus by (again washing) tossing with a little olive oil, salt and pepper and perhaps some hot chilies, garlic or other flavour builders, then grilling on your barbecue or under your broiler in your oven makes an easy side dish to any meal. Do not overcook to retain that unique crunchy texture.
Washed and sliced asparagus can be added to sautéed onions and mushrooms in olive oil or butter just before you pour in beaten eggs for a frittata with a taste of spring. Or add sliced asparagus to your next omelet along with a little fresh salmon.
And of course, asparagus soup. After snapping off the ends of the asparagus (by holding the stalk and bending until the asparagus snaps in two) place the bottom ends of the asparagus into a large pot and add an onion cut in two, a peeled carrot, a few garlic cloves, a few sprigs of thyme and some black peppercorns. Bring to a boil and simmer to make an asparagus stock. Meanwhile, in another large pot add three Tbsp. olive oil, and sautee the following: a large onion - diced, a couple of leeks, sliced - if you have them, and three garlic cloves, minced. Season this with salt and pepper and a little dried basil or thyme. Cook until onions and leeks are soft and translucent.
When the stock is infused with the flavour of the asparagus (it should be light green in colour and taste of asparagus), strain the stock into the onions and leeks. Bring this to a boil and add the tops of the asparagus, which have been cut into one-inch pieces, to the stock mixture. Simmer slowly until the asparagus is just tender - about ten minutes. Remove from heat and puree. Taste and correct the seasonings, if necessary, and serve. The soup should have a beautiful green colour and smooth texture. If desired, a little cream can be added at the end to finish the soup.
Eat all the Ontario asparagus now that you can because it won't be back until next May. Eat it raw, steamed, grilled, in soup, frittatas, appetizers, breakfast, lunch or dinner. But don't worry. The next amazing Ontario green vegetable is right around the corner.